If it has to be $200 per tweeter then so be it.Įlectrostat can be more expensive of course since it would take away the cost of the speaker box, the mid driver, the crossover etc. And since I don't care about radiating pattern 'm thinking I'll be happier with a few dB less clean volume and no hassle but maybe I should consider a waveguide. Yes I read about the loading of the lower treble with a waveguide to effectively boost the direct sound volume of the lower treble, although I'm hesitant to do this as there's more chance for me to mess up with a waveguide (I don't even know yet the ways I can mess it up by placing it slightly wrong etc or any other potential downsides) and the extra trouble for integrating it into the baffle etc. (though way overpriced, as are their Anaview AMS based amps which you can very easily assemble yourself in a few minutes for 1/3 the cost).Īre there no differences between metal domes vs soft domes in this regard (low treble)?Īre there general differences between metal domes vs soft domes other than the seemingly way smoother breakup modes of the soft domes? They use I belief a Seas prestige metal dome crossed over at 1600Hz, I thought it's an interesting design. It's a soft dome and I saw a metal dome used this way with low crossover by Amphion. least attractive option for me now I think)Ĭlick to expand.Aah that is interesting. I would like to make the speakers impulse / phase correct and I have too little knowledge of passive crossovers now to know how I'll achieve this so it'll probably become either active or DSP (or I'd have to not use a flat baffle but slanted. Passive, active and bi-amping or perhaps do the crossover in DSP or even one the computer then to DAC for each driver then to amp for each driver. I'm looking of course for the best overall solution for my application at roughly this price point for tweeters for the most flat low distortion transparant sound.Īny help/suggestions from experienced people appreciated! (I know that in the end for a specific tweeter I'll have to look at CSD's etc)ītw, I haven't decided yet how I'll handle the crossover. Right now not looking at them deeply but for my specific application any reason to think I may do good to look at alternatives? I know there are other tweeters, AMT, or even electrostats etc. Can these offer any advantage at roughly this price point? What are my best options?ĭynamic dome tweeter? Treated paper or metal? I see there are differences in breakup modes, does metal have lower distortion? Can I use either crossed over at a lower point? Any suggestions here? (I know there are a lot of specific things to pay attention to, but I mean general differences at this price point for paper vs metal) So what are the differences in tweeter design?įor for instance roughly around $100 per tweeter. I also do not need a lot of volume from the tweeter in the highs as I'll be listening so close, though if the tweeter is crossed over so low I may need the volume I can get at close to the crossover frequency. So for this is would be helpful if the tweeter can support a low crossover point (for instance 1600Hz 24dB/oct?) to get any mid-woofer breakup totally out of the picture (not only the breakup mode itself but preferably the third harmonic down from the breakup mode well reduced in volume as well as it can still excite the breakup mode if I'm reading things correctly). A 2 way because it will be easier to build with a small front baffle for nearfield listening. I think I would like to start with a 2 way system and later add a sub. I'll be listening only to the direct on-axis sound from the tweeter. So no need for waveguides, and no need for a more even radiation from the tweeter. So in this room I will not need to worry about radiation from the speaker at all. No real modes in the bass from the side walls as one sidewall is only 2.50m high and the ceiling 4.20m leading to a much bigger room, no modes front-back either and no modes floor ceiling either (all absorbed with 30cm+ glasswool and big enough distances / total room size). In it I'll be listening nearfield at a distance of 1 to 1.5m (roughly 4 feet) without any reflections in the highs, only small reflections from the very thick fluffy wool carpet in the mids, and the reflections in the lows besides the floor will be mostly from the sidewalls through 15cm of glasswool absorption but the speakers will be placed against the side walls (so no destructive interference, I'll eq the "constructive interference" flat and use it to my advantage). I'll be treating a part of my room with enough absorption to turn it into a nearly semi-anechoical space. I've decided to build my own speakers and am orienting myself as to the best design for my specific needs.Īm hoping some here are already well read into the science behind different tweeter designs and can point me in the right direction
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